Salty Dog Workshop
Brushing
For all areas, brush WITH the fur direction!
FACE & EARS (Short-shaved areas)
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With short-shaved areas, use a plastic toothed comb for brushing the hair and ears if needed.
Please take care in brushing the fur and not the backing, as abrasion to the fur backing is the primary cause of patching/balding.
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STYLED HAIR, NECKS, TAILS, PAWS, & BODYSUITS
(Long-pile/ unshaven areas)
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The long pile fur can be brushed with a plastic toothed comb or gently with a slicker brush, making sure to not snag the fur backing.
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An important note about fur types:
Most SDW suits are made with teddy/short shag length faux fur, which rarely gets matted. You should not need to use a slicker brush to maintain a sleek and smooth fur texture! For any longer-pile areas made with full/long shag type furs, a slicker brush may be more appropriate so long as you only brush the fur fibres and not the backing. I personally recommend plastic or metal toothed combs with blunt/rounded teeth to minimize damage to the fabric or stitching.
Washing
DO NOT USE ANY HARSH CHEMICALS OR CLEANERS - These will likely degrade your fursuit and cause damage.
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HEADS
You have been provided a complimentary balaclava with your fursuit - please feel free to wear this and minimize sweat absorption into the fur! The solid, plastic interior of the headbase can be wiped down with a cloth and a gentle cleanser to remove any sweat or debris. It is encouraged to use an isopropyl spray (50% ISO, 50% water) to disinfect the interior of your fursuit head during continued use/between washes, such as during conventions.​ All fur and fabric can be spot-washed with a gentle detergent and warm water.
As all SDW fursuit heads are built on solid 3D printed headbases and may use metal fasteners, please avoid fully submerging your fursuit head to prevent any possibility of rusting. The safest and most efficient way to wash your fursuit head is with a small household carpet/upholstery cleaner - the most commonly used machine in the fursuit community is a Bissell Little Green machine.
Washing a fursuit head with a Bissell Little Green machine:
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Refer to the operation manual and instructions for the machine, replacing the carpet cleaning solution for ½ teaspoon of laundry detergent.
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Clean the exterior of the fursuit with the cleaning attachment, doing a second pass on heavily soiled areas. You can also use the machine on the inside of the neck on any lined areas.
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Empty and rinse the clean water (intake) tank, then fill with warm water before going any washed areas to remove detergent.
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Rinse and repeat until any remaining detergent has been removed.
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Set your head up in a well ventilated area with at least one fan to fully dry. Any residual moisture can cause mold or bacterial growth if left for extended periods. Please wipe the inside of the headbase to dry off hardware and solid areas.
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After your head is dry, give it a light brush to ensure there is no fur matting.
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​There are no areas on your fursuit which should bleed or wash out, unless there are airbrushed details or blending (you will be informed if so). Any remaining fabric markings on the fur backing are non-bleeding.
If your fursuit contains electronics, make sure to only wash once the power cable is disconnected. Do NOT submerge heads with electronics or else you may risk damage and malfunction of powered features.​
TAILS, PAWS, & BODYSUITS
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For any parts built on a 3D printed TPU base or carved foam, please use the Green Machine for cleaning to avoid damage to the base structure.
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For items such as paws and tails that are stuffed with polyfil, you can machine wash. Please refer to Matrice’s extensive journal on fursuit washing and different cleaning techniques!
If you ever want to unstuff your tail for cleaning, travel, repairs, or restuffing, you can remove the polyfil through the access zipper near the base of the tail.
Hardware
Do not bend or compress the adjustable headgear in your fursuit head. Do not pull, tug, or roughly handle your headgear. When putting on your fursuit head, push the headbase down onto your head by holding the base by the sides/cheeks and sliding it down. If there are any damages, noticeable wear, or breakage of your headgear please let me know and we’ll assess the condition and necessary repairs. For zippers, do not force the zipperhead past/through any areas where it gets stuck. Neck zippers are lined to avoid getting caught on fur fibres and are tested for smooth function before being shipped.
DURABILITY & PRECAUTIONS
As with any solid items, there is a possibility of breakage. Do not compress your head or 3D printed parts. Flexible TPU ears can be squished and lightly folded, but do not store any structural fursuit parts while contorted. Should your fursuit’s eye blanks or teeth become dislodged at any point, they are shaped to fit the base snugly and should be simple to super glue or contact cement back in place. Please reach out for guidance if you encounter this issue!
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As you grow with your fursuit, you will likely find small popped seams that have developed over time from wear. This is normal and manageable! I will eventually expand this page to include additional repair information, but for the time being, please connect with me to discuss the best options for repair.